American Bistro
Italian-American Cuisine

 

Reviews

Read what some people have said about us:

The New York Times - David Corcoran

AN AMERICAN BISTRO is the sort of restaurant that defiantly refuses to put on airs. It is what it is. Even its name is kind of dare: more Italian-American than American, more trattoria than bistro, it was christened when the chef and owner, a homegrown Nutley guy named Ken Mahon, heard a friend say that a place with such a nondescript name could never succeed.

It inhabits a worn stretch of Washington Avenue where Nutley's well-ordered residential blocks fade into a low-slung industrial miscellany -- railroad tracks, auto body shops, a sanitation truck garage. It's small, with just 17 tables and a long bar, its three television sets usually tuned to sports. The main dining room is pink and unadorned, its blinds drawn against the dreary streetscape.

But in six years, Mr. Mahon has overcome all handicaps of name, location and size, and methodically built his little bistro into a walloping success. In my two visits, one on a Saturday and one on a weeknight, no table stayed empty for long. Servers bustled purposefully through the narrow room, balancing enormous trays of food on one shoulder.

The success is easy to understand. The reasons are apparent in the unforced good cheer of the voice at the other end of the reservation line, in the easy welcome of the hostesses, in the giveaway antipasto platter on your table. Without pandering to some suburban common denominator, Mr. Mahon -- a bluff, compact man of 42 with more than a trace of eastern Essex County in his attitude and accent -- is making a mission out of keeping customers happy.

He likes to come out of the kitchen and chat with the regulars, he says, but only to a point. "If I'm not in there cooking and people see me out front," he told me, "they're going to say, 'Where's my freakin' food?'" He disdains chefs who cover up second-rate ingredients with fancy sauces: "People say, 'That's great chicken -- what do you do to it?' What I do is, I buy good chicken."

That antipasto platter gives a hint of what lies in wait for the rest of the meal. There's nothing on it that you couldn't find in your local deli, if that deli makes its own mozzarella and buy only the best semolina bread, roasted peppers, black olives and the dense, savory sausage called soppressata (here pronounced "spressat' ").

The menu takes a long path through Little Italy staples (fried calamari, zuppa di clams, the usual pastas with the usual sauces) and trattoria basics (osso buco, wild mushroom ravioli) to what might actually qualify as American bistro fare (blackened swordfish, potato-crusted sole). You might think that with so few seats and so many regulars, there wouldn't be much call for some of these dishes, but An American Bistro has it down to a science. Service is well timed and efficient, and you can march briskly through your meal or linger over it.

Appetizers on a "bistro specials" menu include a terrific scungilli salad in the spirit of that free antipasto: plain and simple, but also gorgeous in its integration of flavor and texture, with the chewy, faintly briny scungilli playing off against silken roasted pepper and tangy, crunchy arugula. Another salad incorporates many large shrimp, a pile of perfectly cooked broccoli rape, more of those roasted peppers, and enough garlic to lift the gross domestic product of Gilroy, Calif., the Garlic Capital of the World.

An entree-size appetizer of mussels and Manila clams Fra Diavolo incorporates dozens of flawless mollusks in a homemade tomato sauce that glow with the heat of red pepper. The children at our table were pleased by unsauced fried food like calamari and rock shrimp; adults were spotted sneaking samples.

"Please Save Room for Dessert!" the menu advises. This sound advice is hard to follow. Main courses come on platters the size of a small college campus, and they follow the same successful formula as the appetizers -- basic, carefully chosen ingredients, accurately cooked. Pecan-crusted rainbow trout with sautéed grapes is about as adventurous as Mr. Mahon gets, and it works just fine, the grapes giving off little explosions of juice and sweetness that play off against the mild fish and a tart lemon-butter sauce.

I was underwhelmed by both of the meat entrees we tried, lamb osso buco and filet mignon with scampi sauce. But we had great luck with seafood. A spicy, salty Cajun coating was just restrained enough to complement a fine piece of tuna rather than overwhelm it. Seafood marechiara offers an extravagance of shrimp, mussels, calms, and calamari over a great bed of garlic-scented linguini. My favorite entree, by several lengths, was a glorious, exuberant plate of batter-fried soft-shell crabs over smashed potatoes and lemon butter, topped with onion rings. Save room for dessert, indeed.

But when your cheerful server arrives, bearing a platter so packed with sweets that they seem to gasp for breath, what can you do but give in? Some are made in house, some ordered in, but given Mr. Mahon's high standards, I'm not sure it matters. His cannoli are far too sweet for my taste, but I couldn't get enough of his tiramisu, a striking, deeply caloric confection in which the ladyfingers are not merely a layer of the dish but protrude like the fingers of a baseball glove.

Mr. Mahon is not a wine connoisseur, he says bluntly, with an audible curl of the lip at the fancy French word. For his long and fairly priced wine list, complete with vintage dates and useful classifications (lighter and richer for both reds and whites), he listens to his suppliers and his regular customers, and he buys what they recommend. He has good suppliers and good customers. He's earned them.

Questions? Comments? Recommendations? E-mail the New Jersey section at njdine@nytimes.com.
An American Bistro
24 Washington Avenue, Nutley
(973) 235-0505
Rating: VERY GOOD

ATMOSPHERE -- Cozy neighborhood bar with an attached dining room.
SERVICE -- Genuinely welcoming.
SMOKING -- Allowed in the bar and part of the dining room, the nonsmoking area is well ventilated.
WINE LIST -- Long and fairly priced, with a few surprises.
RECOMMENDED DISHES -- Lentil and pasta soup, shrimp and broccoli rape salad, mussels and clams Fra Diavolo, scungilli salad, rainbow trout, seafood marechiara, blackened or grilled tuna, soft-shell crabs; apple strudel, tiramisu.
PRICE RANGE -- Soups and appetizers: $5 to $15; pastas: $10 to $12; entrees: $13.50 to $21; desserts: $6.
HOURS -- Dinner: Sundays and Tuesdays through Thursdays, 5:30 to 9:30 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays, 5:30 to 10:30 p.m.
CREDIT CARDS -- All major cards.
RESERVATIONS -- Recommended.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS -- Everything is on one level.

Coptright 2001 The New York Times Company.

Star Ledger - Cody Kendall

"The modest storefront facade, four TV's in the bar and folksy servers give no hint of the artful culinary treats awaiting discerning patrons at American Bistro.

Sure, you can order fried calamari, shrimp scampi, or veal marsala; they're practically required in this neighborhood. But what about crawfish and shiitake mushrooms in a brandy cream sauce or a perfect made-on-the-premises creme brulee. Such surprises are what set chef/owner Kenny Mahon's enterprise apart from others of its type and draw out-of-towners as well as the local regulars.

Pink tablecloths and flowers soften the plain, narrow, 58-seat dining room adjacent to the bar, which has room for 20 people. The real ambience is created by the food and an unexpectedly comprehensive wine list that offers an impressive number of choices for less than $25 -- and many for under $20.

Mahon, a dishwasher at the time, got his start at the stove the night the chef walked out.

"I wound up cooking," said the kitchen-trained Mahon, who went on to hone his skills at Esty Street in Bergen County and the Lion's Rock in New York.

He has a number of specialties, including the outstanding seven-layer potatoes, a blend of sweet and white potatoes cut thin enough to read through, then baked with cream, maple syrup and brown sugar. I wouldn't have minded eating this for dessert.

The enormous crawfish and mushroom appetizer had just the right touch of brandy in its delicate sauce. This dish offered eye-appeal, too, with a dainty crown of puff pastry. Equally as attractive was the smoked whiting salad. The mound of fish enhanced by olive oil and lemon wedges got its exclamation points from roasted red peppers, slices of red onions and wrinkled black olives.

The good flavor of baked artichokes topped with golden bread crumbs was subtly brought out with a sauce of butter, white wine and lemon.

Another simple yet effective dish, the shrimp and broccoli rabe salad, starred eight enormous, perfectly cooked shrimp. The vegetable was no slouch in a supporting role, its bitterness tamed by red and yellow peppers, garlic and red onion.

Mahon also offers tripe, not seen very often in these parts, as well as blackened sea scallops over escarole and rock shrimp Arrabiata among the more unusual appetizers.

Nearly all of the entrees are $18 or less, with a few available for $15, emphasizing once again American Bistro's emphasis on value. One of those, the chicken a la casa, is bounteous enough for two, filled with large hunks of sausage as well as chicken, cooked with peppers, mushrooms, onions and potatoes. Balsamic vinegar adds piquancy that gives the dish a special luster.

A simple pan-roasted monkfish served over sauteed escarole and white beans, stood on its own without frills, as effectively as the artichokes had.

By far the most expensive dish on the menu is a veal chop. The excellent meat was served on a huge platter with an abundance of crisply browned sliced potatoes, mushrooms, peppers and onions that amplified its taste. The portion was huge; there is no skimping here.

There are always several pastas, including five black lobster ravioli with pink vodka sauce and a rigatoni Romano brightened with veal meatballs, mushrooms and mascarpone cheese.

Desserts are a combination of items made by Mahon and sweets that come from bakeries. In addition to the creme brulee, a textbook version of this custard covered with a heavy sugar glaze, Mahon also produces the cannoli and a warm apple strudel dusted with powdered sugar. Unlike the more traditional strudel, which involves layers of pastry, this rendition simply enclosed sweetened apples in a pastry shell, but it was every bit as effective. It was presented in high style with chocolate sauce drawn on a leaf pattern atop vanilla cream.

Don't let the humble looks of American Bistro fool you. It offers quality in addition to quantity for a very reasonable price, as well as an opportunity to try some original food."

NJ Dining Guide

"Visiting American Bistro was a shade nostalgic for me, located as it is on my hometown's main drag. I grew up in Nutley's neighboring town of Belleville. It's an area with strong Italian-American roots--a place where mama's kitchen-style manicotti and meatballs are easily found, but "portobello" and radicchio" are words rarely heard.

A restaurant with the name American Bistro seemed quite unlikely... and quite promising. My high hopes for inspired fare were not dashed. To be sure, Italian favorites are not ignored; I doubt you could succeed in that community without them. But chef-owner Kenneth Mahon has found a way to keep everybody happy: He injects the ethnic mainstays with freshness and creativity, and he lets his real passion for contemporary American cuisine shine through in daily specials that please more sophisticated palates.

A perfect example is chicken pecan, a succulent breast of chicken crusted with subtly sweet ground nuts. A platter of side dishes, served family-style, included this delightful surprise: seven-layer potatoes, alternating slices of white and sweet potatoes, baked in a casserole with cream, maple syrup, and brown sugar. The result is a tender, colorful square of potatoes in a silken, nutty-sweet sauce. Unforgettable. It's clear that someone who cares about food is in the kitchen. Upon ordering chicken Savoy, I was warned that it takes 30 to 40 minutes to prepare. No problem.

In the meantime, I indulged in grilled portobello, two perfectly charred, meaty mushrooms accompanied by fresh tricolor salad dressed in a whisper of balsamic vinegar and extra virgin olive oil. When the chicken did arrive, infused with pungent garlic and vinegar, it proved to be worth the wait. All the starters we sampled were excellent, especially a wild mushroom bisque, that was thick & savory, without excessive richness. A tangy mustard sauce accented the crab cakes, chock-full of sweet, fresh crab meat. Artichoke hearts oregananato were large, tender and topped with well-seasoned, buttered crumbs.

A main course of potato crusted sole was impressive--the fragile fillet was somehow wearing a jacket of shredded, golden fried potato. This is the sort of thing I know I could never duplicate in my kitchen. The delicate flavor of the fish shone through an unnecessary lemon-butter sauce.

A foray into the pasta offerings proved consistent with Mahon's progressive philosophy. The alfredo sauce adorning cheese tortellini, was a far cry from a heavy, salty cheese concoction; instead it was light and lively with an intriguing hint of nutmeg. I learned afterwards that of all the pasta dishes, only the ravioli--spiniach and cheese-- are hand-made by Mahon. That's just one more item on my list of reasons to return.

Top-quality ingredients make these dishes so successful. The chicken is free-range, the veal is milkfed, the vegetables are market-fresh. The menu lists heart-healthy entrees as well. Including veal pilliard, poached slmon and whole wheat linguine primavera.

American Bistro features many of the little touches that set a restaurant apart. Featured wines-- perhaps a trendy California merlot or a fruity pinot gris--are available by the glass. The bread basket contains a variety of treats including homemade, crunchy garlic rounds. Complimentary plates of sliced fresh fruit and assorted biscotti are presented at the close of the meal. That last treat should not deter you from sampling the chef's homemade desserts--the creme brulee and cannoli, are particularly good. Not everything is made in-house, however, so be sure to ask.

American Bistro is a refreshing & welcome addition to the dining scene in its corner of Essex County. Chef Mahon deservers kudos for being bold enough--and talented enough--to break the mold and succeed."

Nutley Sun

The quality of food at American Bistro is appreciated once again. On her way to the Meadowlands, New Jersey's Governor Christine T. Whitman, her husband, and staff enjoyed a pleasant dinner at Kenny Mahon's restaurant on Washington Avenue in a historic section of Nutley. A few blocks from the Park Avenue Bridge which connects Nutley and Lyndhurst. And about 15 minutes from Rt. 3 and the Lincoln Tunnel.

For more than 20 years now, Kenny Mahon, chef and owner, has been creating culinary delights for his devoted clientele. American Bistro is mainly promoted by referrals of satisfied customers through not only dinners, but also for catered weddings, christenings, confirmations, anniversaries, birthdays, or any other traditional family get togethers.

To taste Kenny's non-traditional recipes, with strong Italian flavor is unforgettable: Pasta Vodka, Grilled Portobello Mushrooms, Free Range Boneless Chicken, Black Angus New York Strip Steak, Crab Cake, Artichoke Hearts Oreganato, potato crusted Fillet of Sole, Milk Fed Veal Marsala, Tortellini Alfredo with a hint of nutmeg. American Bistro also has a speciality of the chef: Seven-Layer Sweet and White Potatoes, baked with cream, maple syrup and brown sugar cream. The gourmet magazine acquired this recipe for its own cookbook. And of course each meal is accompanied with a choice from an assortment of domestic and imported wines and liquors.

American Bistro is already known for it's outstanding cuisine of magic recipes, with a bit of Italian, and artistic flair. All of Kenny's dishes are a creation of love for food, optimism, and always a new inspiration.

"I collect recipes," he says, "and if I see something in a magazine, or in a cookbook, that looks interesting, or fun, I try it, and then I modify the recipe, so it fits the style of our cuisine.. I've cooked with so many great chefs in prominent restaurants. But it was my own restuarant that I've always wanted. I care about my food and the happiness of my customers. Oh, It's five o' clock, time to start cooking! See you for dinner! American Bistro is open on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays, Saturday, and of course on Sunday. The after dinner drink is on me!"

Kenny Mahon is really an outstanding chef. And eating at the American Bistro is a refreshing and welcome addition to the dining scene in this corner of Essex County and awarded it with three stars.

Just call for reservations: (973) 235-0505. American Express, Visa, Master Card, Discover, and Diner's Club Welcome.